The Easy Way To Build A DIY Adirondack Chair

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Decks, patios, and porches will never be complete without an Adirondack chair. It has become popular because of its attractive, rugged design, and great stability. If you are planning to get outdoor furniture that can add extra style and comfort to your place, consider a pair of Adirondack chairs. This sturdy furniture features timeless beauty, making them a perfect piece for outdoors.

Building a DIY Adirondack Chair


Legs

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Mark one end of the board with a 2-inch point from the corner. From the end of the adjoining side mark 6-inch point then connect the marked points with a straight line. Mark 2 ¼-inch point from the other corner then mark the 10-inch point from the end. Connect the two points to create a cutting pattern then, cut the two tapers using a circular saw. Use it to make identical tapers on the other leg of the Adirondack chair.

Seat and Seat Slats

Use the two legs as the corner of the box providing support for the seat slats. Cut the sea and apron to size then glue the legs to the front end and then connect them with a3″ screws. Place the seat support in a way that the inside face measures 16 ½-inch from the end of the apron. Attach it between the legs and make sure the top parts are revealed.

Cut the seat slats evenly and sand the edges to make them smooth. Before fastening them, use wood scraps to arrange the slats with consistent 5/8-inch spaces on top of the seat box. Make sure that the seat slats overhang the front of the seat box by ¾-inch.

To fasten the seat slats, drill counterbore pilot holes then drive 2-inch deck screws through. Do the same into the seat support and the tops of the apron. Take note to keep the counterbores aligned to make straight lines across the back and front of the seat with the cedar plugs used to fill the counterbores. After installing the slats, utilize a ¼-inch round-over bit router or a power sander to smooth the outer part of the ends and edges of the slats.

Back Slats

Now to make the back slats, you need the following size of lumber: 1″ X 2″, 1″ X 4″, and 1″ X 6″. Cut them to length then trim their corners based on the widest slat which is the 1″ X 6″. Mark 1″ from the outside top corner then mark another 1″ downwards from the corners on the outside edges. Link the two points and cut along the lines using a saw.

Grab the 1″ X 4″ slats then mark them in both directions from one top corner. Make a line then cut, these make the outer slats of the Adirondack chair on the back.

To attach the back slats, trim away the high back brace and the low back brace and place them on a flat surface. Insert spacers under the high braces measuring ¾-inch to level the tops of the braces. Afterward, place the back slats with 5/8-inch spacing between them on the brace then flush the untrimmed ends of the slats with the low back brace’s bottom edge. Moreover, ensure a 26-inch position of the bottom of the high back brace above the peak of the low brace.

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Also, make sure that the braces are perpendicular to the slats. In the low brace, drill pilot holes and counterbore holes. Drive 2-inch deck screws through the drilled holes to connect the slats to the low brace. Do the same procedure to the high brace and fasten the slats using 11/4-inch deck screws.

Build and Assemble the Arms

To make the broad arms of the Adirondack chair, use a 1″ x 6″ material. Trim away the arm’s length then style the outer end with decorative angles. After that, mark 1-inch points from each corner beside both edges, connect the points to make a cutting line on each measuring 1 ½-inch. Slice along the cutting lines using a circular saw or a jigsaw.

Mark points 3 ¼-inch points from each inner edge on the arm’s back then mark the outer edges 10-inch from the back. Link the points then trim away the cutting line using a jigsaw or circular saw. Use a sander to smooth the edges.

To continue, cut the arm cleat and mark ½-inch points in each end. Place it on the corner on your working space then assemble the arms on the top edge of the cleat. This makes the arm back ends cover with the back of the cleat and each arm’s untapered edge to align with the 21/2-inch mark. Secure the arms to the cleats using wood glue.

In the arms, drill pilot holes and counterbore holes driving 3-inch deck screws through and into the cleat. Next, slice the posts to size then utilize a compass to accurately mark a ¾-radius round over cut on each end post corner which will improve stability. Assemble the arms on the square ends of the posts which must set back 1 ½-inch from the arm’s front ends and 1-inch from the inner edge. Use glue to secure the arms to the posts then drill pilot holes in the arms and counterbore driving 3-inch deck screws.

To continue, grab wood scraps to cut tapered arm braces, make sure that the wood grains run lengthwise. Place one arm brace outside each post/arm joint, center them side to side on the post then attach using glue. Drill counterbore pilot holes in the inner side near the top of the post. Lastly, drive 2-inch deck screw on top of the brace to attack each arm.

Assemble the Adirondack Chair

For the last steps of construction, position the back, the arm with a post, and the seat with leg assembly. Get the assemble seat and leg then clamp a wood scrap at the front apron to raise it to the front until the end of the leg are perfectly equal with the surface about 10-inch. Use the same step to brace the assembled arm and post and make sure that the back cleat bottom is raised 20-inch from your work surface. Arrange it so the posts perfectly fit around the front edges of the posts. Drill a pilot hole of about ¼-inch in each leg and partway into the post driving 1 3/8-inch X 2 ½-inch lag screw. Washer through each hole, however, avoid tightening completely.

Now, remove the braces then set the back in a way that the low back brace is positioned between the legs. The slats have to be resting against the front of the arm cleat as well. Secure the back to the seat support with a C-clamp and note that the low brace top edge is leveled with the tops of the legs. When done, you can tighten the lag screws located at the leg and post joints then use a second lag screw at each joint.

Use three equally spaced pilot holes beside the top edge of the arm cleat for drilling and drive 1 ½-inch deck screws through. Drive 3-inch deck screws through the legs until it reaches the ends of the low back brace.

Finishing Touches

To seal holes from counterbores, you can either cut or buy ¼-inch thick, 3/8-inch diameter cedar wood plugs. Use wood glue to secure it then sand the surrounding surface of the plugs. Sand all the surfaces of the chair then if desired, apply a clear wood sealer for finishing.

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