Whether you are constructing a rustic interior or adding old wood accent to a new decorating procedure, barn wood is a very popular choice. And the good thing is you do not have to select through the piles of splintery old lumbers or pay overpriced prices for looking a barn wood.
You can simply transform low-priced pine board into the rustic board that is almost vague from the actual thing. In this story, we will give you an easy formula for doing just like that.
Things to Be Needed
There are some vital tools for making your own barn wood. The first is the angle grinder. It does not necessary to buy an expensive tool you need in making a barn wood. The one that they commonly used is from Harbor Freight Tools. The second needed tool is the knot cup brush add-on for the grinder. Make sure that the arbor diameter of a cup brush will match to the arbor on the grinder that you will be used. In addition, you will be needed an awl, a claw hammer and a utility knife for additional distressing.
Grinding tosses a lot of bags of dirt and even the random wood chip, so put on a dust cover and a safety glasses. You will be also needing a paint roller to put on the first coating of the stain, and cotton pieces for the continuing of the two coats. It depends on you if you will be using a Varathane Summer Oak for the 1st coat, Varathane Kona for splotchy dark layers, and Varathane Weathered Gray for the final coating. You do not need to be too fussy about selecting knotty pine boards. As much as they are reasonably straight, they will work fine.
Here are 10 Easy Steps on How You Start Your Own Barn Wood
Since stacks would get in the technique of grinding process, tack the boards to sawhorses with the 6D finish nail. Then you must follow the 10 steps below for you to distress the exterior of the woods. If both sides of boards will be cleared or visible, flip the boards over and reiterate the steps.
1. Grind the ends and edges
By using the grinder spinner, make a random scratch in the edges of the board. While you are at it, round the keen factory edges. Then grind each end of the board.
2. Erode the surface of the board
Take away some softwood from between darker wood grain or growth rings by run-up the cup brush alongside the board. Then follow the grain patterns. The growth rings are difficult and will stay, whereas the brush will be wearied away the softer lumber between them.
3. Make a realistic wormholes
Punch the groups of “wormholes” in the random patterns using the awl. Extend some of the holes by angling the awl downward after punching. Space each group of holes about six (6) to twelve (12) inches apart.
4. Add some dents
You can also make a dent by using any blunt tools, chain, or even a metal pipe. A hammer hook is convenient and works very well. Group each dent in a random pattern beside the board.
5. Carve out the splits
Carve out or hollow out the softwood beside the grains to revive a crack. Make a fake crack at the ends of each board, or beside the edges. You can also simply expand a remaining crack.
6. Make a saw blade marks
Run the grinder through the board in the series of arcs to make the appearance of old, “rough-sawn” wood. Add this type of pattern to your remaining boards for diversity.
7. Smear the finish
When you already completed the distressing procedures for all of your boards, now, follow the staining procedure shown in the following steps. Do not worry if the finish appearances or looks like slightly different from one (1) board to the remaining boards.
Variations will be added to the genuine look. When you are done with following the stain rags, put them at the top edge of the bucket or on the garbage can to get dry before setting or disposing of them. Wadded-up, stain-soaked rag can freely combust.
Your boards will really look like a most authentic without putting a vibrant coating, but if you want a more long-lasting finish, let each of the stained boards get dry overnight before polishing on the coat or the two (2) of polyurethane. Choose a matte or flat sheen to maintain the weathered looks.
8. Start with a base coat
Roll on the 1st coat of the stain. Entirely cover the board. Then wipe off some leftovers using a cotton rag. Just let this coat dry around five (5) minutes before proceeding to the next layer of stain.
9. Dab on a dark stain
Dip a bundled cotton rag in the dark stain then smear it to the board on random patches. Spread out every patch using a rag to make an unequal layer of dark stains.
10. Finish using a gray stain
With a different cotton rag, wipe on the coat of a gray stain. This coat is able to be steadier than the dark coat. Wipe off the excess stain using dry cotton till you can finally achieve the old look you want. If you like the added protection of clear finish over a stain, let each of the stained boards get dry overnight before polishing on the coat or the two (2) of polyurethane.
Creating Do It Yourself projects and furniture is surely durable and can save money. So, if you want to have long term utilities try to do these in your own like this barn woods. Distressing wood is fun and easy.
You don’t need to spend a lot of money to buy an expensive barn woods, all you need is to exert efforts in creating a DIY barn woods. Hoping that these steps can help or can guide you in making your inexpensive and genuine barn wood.